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Many of the culinary manuscripts that I’ve paged through in libraries include mentions of mothers, grandmothers, sisters, female neighbors, friends, and correspondents.Among other things, these small notes reinforce the fact that the recipe archive is an archive of women’s knowledge and community.
If I had more sorrel, or peak summer sorrel, it might have produced a juicier sauce all on its own. Flip the legs a third time so the skin side is up once again.(Many smart people have written about this topic, but these two posts from about emotion and community come to mind immediately.) Of course, these notes always make me think about the recipes that circulate in my own community. I began to compile the first when I moved to London for a year and wanted to bring recipes with me.The notebook is full of recipes from my mother alongside dishes I’d cooked with friends and roommates in college.For an even mix, make sure these pieces are smaller than your raisins.
Grate the suet on a box grater or in a food processor so it is also in small pieces.
These books are part of a larger network of recipes in various material forms: my mother’s recipe box with cards in her handwriting, her mother’s handwriting, her sisters’ handwriting, and the handwriting of new and old friends; the letter I have from my great aunt with her cookie recipe in neat cursive; my notes from the afternoon I spent cooking eggplant parm with my father’s mother because I knew that I was missing crucial steps; printed emails sent from my husband’s family when he wanted to cook a dish from a home.